July 19 – 21, 2016
Wrapping things up and coming full circle. I have officially reached the end of my bicycle tour of Madagascar, and effectively, Africa. In less than 1 week, I’ll be back in Boulder. I couldn’t let things end without a little more adventure and more Kevin Bacon.
I had read about the “3 Bays” on the opposite side of the peninsula from me in Ramena. I attempted to cycle around to it 2 days prior and was soundly defeated by an endless barrage of ankle swallowing sand. I could not leave Ramena with that on my score card. A day later, I decided I would take another crack at my old friend the sand and try getting there from the other direction…this time without all 50+ lbs of my gear…just me and my bike. It was only 6km of sand coming from the west and even having to walk 2/3 of it, I made it to the 3 Bays in about 1 hour…and wow I’m glad I did. I’m a self proclaimed “not a beach guy”, but this was truly breath taking. Hopefully the photos listed below do a better job at describing the magic of this place because words simply cannot paint it well enough. The smashing deep blue waters of the Indian Ocean flowed gently into each of the 3 shallow turquoise bays, creating an oasis of natural tranquility. I spent 2 hours there, without anybody else around, just being.
The next morning, I cycled 20km back into Diego in order to sleep closer to the airport for the 9 a.m. flight the following day. While in Diego, I made another appearance at the gym for some “musculation” then headed to the grocery store for supplies. Six weeks prior, while having dinner in Tana, before I had set out on my journey, I briefly met a woman who founded an orphanage in Diego. She invited me to visit if I made it up that way. Keep in mind that it is approximately 1200 km from Tana to Diego and at that point I still had not figured out what direction I was going. Flash forward 6 weeks, literally from the beginning of my journey to the end. I ran in Laura in the grocery store car park. We immediately recognized one another, put my bike in her vehicle, and zoomed off to her orphanage. La Maison d’Arnoud, is home to 27 Malagasy children ages 1 – 12 years. She has an amazing staff and beautiful children. The care that her organization provides is truly heart warming. Visit her site here for more information or to learn about her cause. https://www.facebook.com/The-Arnaud-Guesry-Foundation-323777404396290/
Wednesday morning. I awoke with excitement yet also reflection. It is the final day on my bike. I left the hotel at 7 a.m and arrived at the airport at 7:45 to the much expected spectacle of the American cycling through Madagascar who is now loading his bicycle on the plane. After 3 flights, I have this pretty well figured out. This time I even managed to negotiate the extra bike fee down from $60 to $30. The crew rolled my bike out the door and onto the plane. While waiting for take off, I met an American couple (actually the wife grew up in India and she gave me great tips on cycling through the Himalayas…foreshadowing?). I learned that she is a professor in Maryland and was actually visiting a former student, who is a Peace Corps volunteer at the orphanage, who is a close friend of my Peace Corps friend Jenna. They arrived there 20 minutes after I had departed. Additionally, they also went diving with an American girl from South Africa while in Nosy Be…my friend Chloe. And…if that was not enough Kevin Bacon…as I was departing the airport upon landing back in Tana, the woman who’s hotel I stayed at in Nosy Be, (where my friend Chloe is staying), who I saw on the road to Ambilobe, who I saw at the national park in Ankarana, was standing at the exit picking up some clients. We exchanged a hug and a laugh. I realize that this is probably just coincidence, but Madagascar is big, really big…and very spread out. However, this has been happening to me since I arrived here. I don’t know why, but I love it. I have truly met amazing people every place I have been.
It is a strange feeling being back in Tana, the city where my journey began nearly 6 weeks prior. I re-connected with Jenna whom I also met then. She is in town for a Peace Corps project. We visited the familiar restaurants and also the street market to buy some amazing fresh produce. The noise, the crowds, the traffic, the feeling of organized chaos…they are all still here, just as I left them. Six weeks went by seemingly in the blink of an eye. Back on my bicycle for the last time in Madagascar. The world spins by.
From Ramena, the 3 Bays are marked by the grey dot at the top of the peninsula. The road through the middle and up the east coast the road of misery.
Old French structures scattered throughout Ramena
Hello old friend
3 Bays
3 Bays
3 Bays
Ramena and Diego were very strategic locations during WWII
Exploring more fun trails
Sunset in Ramena
Sunset in Ramena
Strange to sleep in a hotel like this again
The market in Tana
I really miss vegetables
Strawberries!
An old friend and her guitar
Amazing. Those coincidences mean you are in the right place. When it’s odd it’s God :).