September 14 – 18, 2016

In 1975, Bob Seger released the song “Kathmandu”.

“…That’s where I’m goin to Katmandu
Up to the mountains where I’m going to
If I ever get out of here
That’s what I’m gonna do”

Some people love the ocean. Others, the mountains. I am absolutely the latter. No question. They call to me, feed me, inspire me. I am at home when I am there and I am adrift when I am not. I was born in 1974, just before that song was released. I think ever since I remember music, I remember this song, and wondering what this place was about.

Here I am, in Kathmandu, 42 years later, about to embark on another journey. Like journeys prior, ideally one of cultural, personal, and spiritual growth and exploration.

Fortunately in today’s world, information is everywhere and readily available. If you can dream it, someone has likely done it, wrote about it, and is willing to share. I have read many blogs, met numerous kind people both on-line and around Boulder, who have provided me with details of their journeys, personal connections, and thus sparked passions for my own.

I arrived in Kathmandu on Friday, after over 30 hours of travel. I literally completely lost Thursday. The time change is 12 hrs and 15 minutes ahead of Mountain Standard Time in Colorado. Yes, 15 minutes. Ah…Kathmandu. The city sits at 1,400 meters (about 4,600 feet) and is the main launching point for Everest and the Annapurna circuit expeditions.  There are shops everywhere for all of your last minute active endeavor needs.  I am staying in the Thamel district, in the heart of Kathmandu, known for narrow, busy streets, lined with small shops, vendors, and stupas (dome shaped buildings erected as a Buddhist shrine). It is busy. It is loud. It is organized chaos. It is Kathmandu and I love it.

I awoke at 430am to sounds of dogs and roosters, but an otherwise quiet stillness. Over my travels, those sounds have begun to sound like home. After being so heavily grounded in Colorado for 20 years, I now find that I am most at peace when I am traveling, when I am moving. I am a newly formed wanderer.

After spending over an hour to drive 5 km on Friday night to meet a new friend for dinner, the traffic had receded, and I set out to explore on foot. It is Saturday, and there is a festival going on. Evidence of the scars from the 7.8M earthquake that rocked the city in April 2015, killing more than 8,000 and injuring 21,000, were everywhere. Many structures are destroyed but are in the process of being rebuilt. Some are more than 6,000 years old. The spirit, resolve, and pride of people here is contagious as they recover and heal. Buddhism is very prominent, with numerous stupas and statues of the Buddha where locals can stop to pray and pay respects.

It has been my experience that as a tourist (which I do my best not to look or act like but lets face it…I am), if anything negative is going to happen to you, it is most likely in the major cities and that is where you need to be most guarded. I have yet to feel that way in Kathmandu (Ktm as it is commonly abbreviated). Everyone that I have met has greeted me with a “nameste” and nothing but respect, courtesy, and genuine kindness.  To the Nepalese people, it is all about good Karma.

My plan for this trip is to arrive in Kathmandu, leave my bicycle case, then fly to the Ladakh region of Northern India to a place called Leh, and cycle back to Ktm…for as long as it takes. The distance is about 1,800 miles, through the Himalayas. Leh is the capital of the Ladakh region, perched at over 3,500 meters (11,482 feet), deep in the Himalayas up by the Pakistan and Chinese borders in the Jammu and Kashmir region.  It is daunting indeed…and the road goes up from there. There are 2 blogs that I found very useful for this route and I have been in contact with both authors for tips and insight.  The also provide amazing photos of what lies ahead.

https://www.himalayabybike.com/Himalaya_by_Bike/Manali_Leh_route_info.html

https://www2.gurdon.cam.ac.uk/~ad327/india2008/

The route will take me over the highest motorable roads in the world, including Taglang La and Khardung La, both at over 17,000 feet. I am short of breath and light headed just typing this.  The weather window is tight to be cycling at that altitude as the area becomes even more susceptible to storms and heavy snow. The monsoon season here is real and just ended, so now is time. The highest points will be from Leh to Manali, along the famous Leh Manali highway (and the term “highway is used loosely). The area is so barren and remote that there is not any permanent human habitation. There will not be many actual hotels, but rather camping with my own gear and also at dhabas, temporary road side tent communities where tourists, military, and road crew can find shelter.

I booked a flight to Leh tonight and I leave tomorrow. For someone who has typically been very “type A”, I am learning to relax my grip, over prepare, then go with the flow. I’m looking forward to returning to Kathmandu, hopefully in about 6 – 8 weeks.

My mantra has been and will continue to be: Go with an open heart.  Be mindful and compassionate.  Be curious and inquisitive and open to possibilities. Be prepared to be humbled.  Take chances. Be vulnerable.  Pedal slowly. Tread lightly, but live deeply. Don’t wait.  Your time is now. Today is the oldest you’ve ever been and the youngest you’ll ever be again.

Namaste