1/15/17 – 1/21/17

I was asked by a man recently (and I get this question dozens of times per day), “Why do you come here?” Before I could give my standard, canned answer, he answered my question more perfectly and more simply than I have been able to thus far. “To explore the beauty?” I thought about that for half a second at most, and emphatically replied, “YES! The beauty of the people, the culture, the mountains.” This will be my new response going forward.

Three days ago I was wearing every layer that I brought as I surfed my 80lb bike through the wind blown snow drifts down wintery Se La Pass at just under 14K feet. The snow and cold seem like a distant memory. The ups and downs of Arunachal. Big climbs. Big descents. We are now in a jungle with dense, wet, overgrown greenery, and cascading waterfalls that wash out roads. Roads that will never be dry. Seemingly around every corner there is a landslide that has closed the road as crews struggle to keep up. It is a tale of 2 worlds, yet we are still in Arunachal Pradesh. Every day provides an opportunity for something unplanned yet cherished.

Over 2 weeks since arriving in Arunachal Pradesh, we have only paid for lodging on 3 occasions. Instead, people everywhere have opened their homes and their hearts to us, welcoming us to their very beautiful, very proud state. There simply are not western tourists here but they are endlessly excited to show off their home. There are “hotels” here, but they are typically for “fooding” unless otherwise specified as “fooding and lodging”. Coming back down from Tawang, we arrived at a hotel for “only fooding”. As has been the case, proper lodging was not available. We asked if we could camp in the restaurant, simply by moving some of the tables. Confused, perplexed, yet curious, the owners agreed. They were very concerned that it was too cold and felt guilty that they could not offer us a mattress or blankets but we reassured them we would be ok with our camping gear. Another ice cold bucket bath ensued in a wash room cleaner than most actual hotels we’ve stayed in. There was no power however so bathing was done by headlamp as the full moon began to peak its way through the window. Simple life. I’m getting so used to it that I wonder how I will be when I go back to Colorado.

The following night was another similar and familiar story. Nearing dark, with no lodging in between villages so small that it is amazing that they even had names, we asked to camp at a local boarding school. We were welcomed with open hearts and open arms, and coincidently with a semi annual party for the kids that was going on. After getting my groove on with a group 40 kids ages 6-10 around a bon fire dance party, we were invited to dinner in the school director’s home. Traditional homes in this part of the state have a separate kitchen, often detached from the home. It is made of bamboo floors, walls, and roof. Everyone sits on mats in the middle of the room around a simple fire that is used for heat. Off to the side there is either an adobe wood fired stove for cooking or if they are of higher means, sometimes a gas burner. The 90 kids at this school walk 2-3 days to get here from those same jungle villages, the ones almost too small for a name.   They speak 6 different dialects and not all of them overlap so communication, and of course teaching is a challenge. Remember, there are 26 local tribes in Arunachal Pradesh. To standardize, plans are written in English. All of the kids want to know my name and none of them forget.   “Good morning Jerry”, I hear as they softly and politely peer through the window the next morning as my eyes flutter open. I continue to be amazed by the kindness of the people here. The simple life. The human experience.

The next day we planned to make a “reset day” as I have been calling it, in the state capital of Seppa. We awoke to a foggy, dreary day, and when combined with putting on wet cycling clothes, set our moods on an uncommon downward spiral. After a short ride from the school, we arrived by 9 am to a dusty, truck stop looking village, hardly worthy of being the capital. The one guest lodge in town was grim. This was not the reset day that we were hoping for. I had exchanged contact info with 2 men at dinner the night before who live in Seppa and inquired about other hotel accommodations. There were none, but immediately the first man I contacted met us in town, led us to him home, gave us tea, and promptly offered us his guest room. For either me, or the Swiss, it would have been an ideal situation but we really wanted 2 rooms. A quick call to his neighbor who was connected to the local Baptist church and we had 2 rooms at the church guest house, high up on the hill, overlooking the city. Almost as soon as we checked in and unpacked our bags, the fog of the day, and our own fog, burned off with the warmth and kindness of the people of Seppa.

Excited for us to be there, the man patiently waited 2 hrs for us to wash so he could invite us to his home to share tea and food with his family. Afterward we were treated to a glass of ice cold Mountain Dew, something I know was a treat and he was proud to offer. It was a treat for me since my last Dew was in 1992. My teeth still hurt and my head is still buzzing from the sugar.

We were invited back for dinner, which we eagerly accepted. Only our new friend spoke English. He did all the translating for a group that soon included 7 family members (including mom and dad), 4 neighbors and 2 other visitors, all sitting around the fire, enjoying a meal together. Following dinner, we were treated to local songs around the fire. I know this sounds story bookish, but it was amazing. I still have the goosebumps on my arm. They endured even after I was prompted to sing a local song from my country. Uhhhh…hmmm… The only song I could come up with was “The Way You Look Tonight” by Frank Sinatra, one of my all time faves. Crickets. Nobody knew the song or Sinatra! They still politely applauded me for my effort. Once again, we were invited into someone’s home, treated like family and not an outsider. As we were leaving, through the son, the mother said, laughing hysterically, “My mother watches Discovery Channel and she loves Man vs. Wild. You look like Bear Grylls.” Apparently she hasn’t seen many, if any westerners. She knows Bear Grylls but not Sinatra? I guess maybe with my beard and outdoor gear I looked like an outdoor sorta guy? I don’t see the resemblance, but nonetheless, I laughed and was flattered.

Somebody please be an asshole so I can wake up from this dream! Never before have I felt such kindness with nothing expected. Just giving to give. Smiles so big that they are impossible to fake.  People who have nothing but give everything. They were more honored to have us than we were to be invited into their family. And after our time with them, we felt like family. I could see in the mother’s eyes as I was leaving a general concern yet admiration. I felt an immediate connection with her and would loved to have stayed longer. This is what its like when there is no hate. No fear. People accepting one another for their similarities and differences. Without judgment. Genuine desire to connect. The human experience. There were 20 people, mostly from India but 1 from Bangladesh 1 from Nepal, 2 Swiss and 1 American sat around the kitchen fire, sharing stories and singing songs.

The following day, the other man I met and messaged replied and invited us to his home for lunch. He and his friend arrived on motorcycles to pick us up and transfer us to his friend’s home, eager to connect with us as well. There was a catholic church nearby with about 15 boys ages 7-12 playing soccer in a field. It was too much. I had to play. The joy and exuberance just as we were picking teams then later in the game will last in my memory forever. I remember learning to play soccer at that age and the excitement it brought me and to be able to share that with these boys took me back to that place. It seems everywhere I go, I relish in the attention of the children and I’m always eager to chat, sing, dance, or play soccer. I just cannot get enough of this experience. “Jerry is a crowd puller,” our host said. I’ll take that as a compliment with a smile and a laugh. I just have no problem walking up an talking to anyone which really is a shift in my personality.

My friend Sara asked me recently, “What’s with all the pictures of the kids?” Simple. I have been inspired every day by them. The joy. The innocence. The optimism. The curiosity. They have so little but are so happy.  All the things I try to foster in my life each day. It’s a reminder to not take myself or my situation so seriously. This journey that I’m on and this country just keep inspiring me. Every day with renewed curiosity.

Watch this video and you’ll understand

When I first began traveling, first to Africa, then to India and Nepal, it was really more of an adventure. My time was finite. I have since changed my focus, my perspective, and my pace. I have grown and am becoming so much closer to my true self. Now, I am rolling through this amazing world and this is becoming just my life.