September 23, 2016

The bar has been set, and set high. Literally and figuratively. It is the beginning of my Himalayan odyssey. Today was one of those days that washes over you with a plethora of pure and overwhelming joy.  How do you describe a blue that is bluer than any blue sky you have ever seen? As my dad always says, “How do you describe something that is indescribable? You cannot. It just is. Put away your iPod. Be present. Enjoy it. I am in my space. Everything is as it should be.

My departure from Leh was pushed by 1 day due to a holdup with my permit. Permits are required for tourists to travel in certain parts of Ladakh, due once again to the proximity to the Pakistan and China borders. They are easy to get, cost 700RS (about $11) and are good for 7 days.  It actually worked out well because the day that I was set to leave, Khardung La received its first snow of the season. It would not have been the worst thing, but snow and cold at the top of an 18k ft mountain pass could be pose some…challenges.

I went to sleep under a perfectly clear, starry night and woke at 530 a.m. with an unquenchable enthusiasm. There was not a cloud in the sky. I was up and no way was I going to back to sleep. By 630 a.m. the sun was cresting the mountains, and immediately raised the temperature from 30F degrees to about 45F. I was giddy. Padmon made me a special 4 egg, 4 slice of toast, 3 cups of chai breakfast. “Will give you strength on your journey today,” he said with his beaming Nepali smile. By 8 a.m., I hugged my new friends good bye, promised to see them again, then set out on my journey up Khardung La, the highest motorable road in the world.

Before rolling out, I received a message from my friend Jenna, whom I met on my cycling travels in Madagascar. She is an amazingly talented and creative musician / person who really needs to do something with this gift (hint, hint, nudge, nudge). I wanted to share…

As you begin another cycling journey, I hope…

That the road is curvy but kind

That the hills lift you to new heights within yourself and the world

That the cold nights are cradled by the warmth of fulfillment

That the people you meet leave a print on your heart, and that you leave prints on theirs, next to the tire prints left on the road

That you forge you own path and the unknown embraces you as you embrace it yourself

That the fierce winds in every direction remind you of all of the people who love you and are sending that love your way

That the worldspinsby, but not too quickly, because every sight and every moment is precious. Each deserves to be savored and held in a deep breath of appreciation

Breathe in the world. Breath, in the top of the world. And keep cycling on…

I began pedaling my 80lb bike up the pass, lurching forward like it was spring loaded. Dial it back I tell myself. Control your youthful enthusiasm I remind myself…at least a little. I will be climbing over 7,000 ft over the next 40km…which by my math should take about 5 hours. The sky was blue, that indescribable blue. The air was cool. The single lane, nicely paved road was all mine.

The first 25km were a gentle, gradual, winding ascent, literally cut into the side of this behemoth of a mountain. In some places it is easily a 500 foot drop off. Steady….I have mastered the art of taking photos while pedaling. If I had not, I would still be riding, because I would have had to stop, a lot. Around every corner there was a view that was even more daunting, inspiring, and captivating than the one before. The air was only about 45F but the intensity of the sun at 15k feet made it feel like 70F. Emotions were high, mind was at ease, pedal strokes flowed freely. I am in my space. Everything is as it should be.

Just before the 25km mark, I came upon an Indian couple whom I met 2 days prior in the main plaza in Leh. We pedaled together up to the first permit check point and from there we shared an egg sandwich and several cups of chai. Today is their final day, and my first. I listened enthusiastically as they told me tales of their journey throughout India by bicycle, and it sparked even more inspiration within me. They were only going to the top of the pass and then back down, but I will be going over the backside to the Nubra Valley. We wished each other safe travels, exchanged several warm hugs, and I was on my way. It’s fascinating to me how you can forge such a strong connection with someone having literally talked to them for only 20 minutes. India has been nothing short of inspiring. I am in my space. Everything is as it should be.

Five kilometers up the road, the pavement turned to dirt. My new Indian friends described it to me as “bad road”. I supposed that is all perspective. This section of the road climbed steeper and was all dirt. It was the kind of dirt that shows the effects of being at 16k – 18k feet, through warm and cold, wet and dry, freeze and thaw, expand and contract. It was exactly what I wanted. Shortly after entering the dirt, clouds rolled in and it began to snow. The temperature dipped below 30F. I was in my element. I battled this last 10km for the next 2 hours. Around each corner, I could see the road climbing higher. Each time I thought I was nearing the summit, I was sternly scolded by another broken, loose switchback that dove deeper into the canyon. Finally, after 2 hours of war, I saw prayer flags, signaling that the summit was near. For some reason, Mother Nature winked at me and opened up the sky again to a glistening, piercing, indescribable blue. I spent 15 minutes at the top to take it all in and witness the euphoria from everyone else who had made it this far, whether by bicycle, moto, or auto. The emotion was all the same.

My plan was to point my bicycle down the back side of the pass. There is very little info about this area and nobody that I have talked to has dared to cycle back here nor heard of anyone doing it. Do a search on Google and it comes up blank…which makes my decision pretty easy. I have been told that I should plan to be self sustaining for 3-4 days.   As I go over the back side of the pass, the road was even worse. Translation: I could not be happier. The landscape felt like I was in another world. Rock slides were common. One of them closed the road. Another advantage of being on a bicycle. Roads are rarely ever closed to you. Another 5 km down the pass a car had slid into the ditch, again closing the road. Fortunately, they didn’t slide on the other side because the road fell off 500 ft, to a sharp, rocky embankment that likely would have ruined their day. I again pass this closure and am able to flow freely down the mountain pass for the next 2 hours. Imagine the smooth undulations of being on a boat as it calmly floats freely on the open water. You have no place to be, except to just…be. The sun is out. I am floating freely down this magnificent mountain pass, down the highest motorable road in the world, and there is no one around. I am in my space. Everything is exactly as it should be.

Rolling down the pass, I came through the small village of Khardung. There are a few small places to eat and 1 guest house. I imagine at best there are less than 150 people who live there. I would hardly call it a village. I later learned that there is only electricity from 7-11pm, another beautiful thing about being so remote. My plan was to make it another 35km to Rondu. Instead, as I slowly approached the one guest house at 4pm, the woman who runs it was standing outside with her 9 month old daughter. We locked eyes.   Her warming smile combined with her daughter’s intoxicating laughter, and my decision was made. It is a family guest house, with 3 rooms. The price was 300RS (about $4.50). I had dinner with her, her daughter, and her parents in their personal kitchen. Her mother made dahl and roti over the wood burning stove. She repeatedly filled my plate until finally I could eat no more. Her mother and father spoke no English but could tell from the look in my eyes and the smile on my face, that I was truly grateful for this experience.

The village is dark, quiet, and cold. We’re at nearly 15k feet. I head up to the roof before going to sleep. The 22,000+ foot mountains surround and protect this tiny village. It is a clear, cloudless night. The stars twinkle like ice.

Today was a magical day and truly has set the bar high. I know that at some point I am bound to get thrown a curve ball, but right now, I am in my space. Everything is as it should be.