May 30 – 31, 2016

This is the question my friend Sara asks me via Whatsapp after I send a test text to her with my new Botswana SIM card. I’ll come back to this in a bit.

I leave Ben’s house at 8a to catch the 9a bus. It is essentially a 10 mile urban safari through morning rush hour, on the wrong side of the road (for me), through Lusaka, the capital of Zambia. I arrive at the bus stop (this is noteworthy since my friends ‘incorrectly’ believe me to be somewhat directionally challenged.) I pay $12 for the 8 hr ride from Lusaka to Livingstone. I had originally planned to pedal the 300 miles over the course of 5-6 days, however upon further research, the road looks worth skipping. It is the main road connecting two major destinations (translation: coaches and lorries…a lot). Before the bus departs, we are given a blessing from a woman for our safe travels. She works for the bus tour company. Apparently this is common. There are 2 white guys on the coach, me and another guy who looks eerily similar to me (build, bald head, facial hair). His name is Phillip from Vancouver. He said he tagged me for an American based on my Patagonia gear? Guilty. He has been traveling solo for a year, all on public transportation. Now he is doing the Cairo to Cape tour. I love to hear tales of people’s exploration. After being on this 1 bus for 8 hours, that seems plenty for me. I like my bike.  We arrive in Livingstone. I’m officially on my own in Africa and it sets in…and its so exhilarating, and yet calming. I quickly find a hostel that offers camping and a shower for $9.

Livingstone is a tourist town just before Victoria Falls with a population of around 100,000.   If you have not heard of Victoria Falls, look it up. It’s one of the 7 Natural Wonders of the World. It literally creates a border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. I wake up the next morning and spontaneously make the decision to get on the bike and pedal to Kasame, Botswana. (remember: “What are you doing in Botswana?”) Since I did not pedal to Livingstone, I now have 5 extra days to explore. There is a “four corners” situation with Zambia, Zimbabwe, Namibia, and Botswana all coming together essentially at 1 spot. I didn’t figure I could pass up the opportunity to see 4 countries, if only briefly, over the course of 3 days.

Within 1 hour of navigating the busy streets of Livingstone, I arrive at the Zimbabwe border. I cross the bridge past Victoria Falls, and I’m paralyzed with the sheer specter and magnitude of Victoria Falls, and this is just from the bridge. I’ll spend more time next week exploring the area and with a proper write up and more superlatives that will still not do it any justice.

I arrive at the Zimbabwe immigration and in line at the immigration office, I meet 2 local Zambians also on their bikes, who noticed my Zambian national football team jersey and wanted to come talk to me (thanks to my friend Ben who gave me that as a travel gift. It’s already paying dividends). They are heading to Zimbabwe to do some shopping. They ask, “Are you riding by yourself?” To which I respond, “Yes”. “Wow, that is dangerous!” (This is what I heard through his accent and the wind in my ear while pedaling and I’m thinking of my parents as I hear this). I ask, “Why dangerous?” “No…adventurous. Zimbabwe is very friendly.” Whew…that makes me feel better.   We cross the border together and pedal about 3 miles up to my turnoff to Botswana. We exchange contact info and part ways. I have already had so many beautiful interactions in such a short period.

The ride from the Zimbabwe border to Botswana is about 70 miles on perfectly paved tarmac. The road is nearly completely flat and straight, save for 2 hills (yes, I counted). It looks like any other 2 lane country road in, say, Michigan…except I’m in AFRICA (yes, I’m still working on NOT saying that. It will take some time for it to wear off). I have been told that elephants frequent this road between Victoria Falls and Kasame…another reason I was drawn to it.  With a perfectly flat road and zero traffic, I’m constantly scanning for elephants which should be hard to miss…however disappointedly to no avail. I cross the border in Botswana and continue on to the town of Kasame. Kasame is best known as the launching pad for safaris into Chobe National Park. I pick up  a local SIM card, find a hotel, clean up and get some food. As I’m returning from dinner, the person at the front desk asks if I’m interested in a game drive at 6 a.m. to see elephants. Since I didn’t see any on the road that was supposed to have them all…like a little kid, who had just been offered candy and ice cream for breakfast, I emphatically accept. As I’m standing at the counter filling out paper work, a woman in her late 60’s from Australia comes in, overhears the conversation and interjects, “There are TOO MANY ELEPHANTS!” I guess we’ll just see about this tomorrow, ya?

Decisions

Quick glimpse of Victoria Falls.

Victoria Falls